Tuesday, October 26, 2010

How we got Started at our CentrallyCalm Barnyard


We recently moved to the country; well that's putting it
mildly, we moved to the middle of almost no where. It's located near the corner of 'far far away' and 'no body has discovered it yet!'

It's remote enough for us, for now.

We wanted to have some chickens, to start us off; then we will add to the flock and the menagerie next spring. When we moved in, about September of this year, we weren't aware that a livestock auction was a mere month away. This meant that everything was put on hold in the house, to build a coop for potential laying hens. That is, on the days it wasn't raining. September was a very rainy month here.

The plans were simple, and I can post them at some point, but nothing is precision or inspector ready. It wasn't being built to any fancy building codes, it's a very small building which is safe, secure and hopefully predator proof.

Here are the steps we took, with photographs...



one of the young birds, enjoying the view from the new window

Photographs of the Chickens





Step 6: Chickens move in!

The next step was the chickens moved in. Technically, we had them move in prior to putting up the slab wood outside. The chickens just ran in the yard while we finished banging on the coop.

This is a view of the coop from the doorway. The window is to the right, the hens laying boxes are straight inside the coop, on the far wall from the door. The window has a crank handle which allows for fresh air, even on rainy or snowy days.

These are a few of the birds which are now residing in the new Chicken Chalet (is that just too close to Swiss Chalet? LOL)

They have blessed us with 6 eggs already, which was highly unexpected in the short time which they have been with us. Only 24 days they have been here; some are moulting more than others, 2 are too young to lay (if they are hens!) and one of our layers (the one in the top of the photo) died of unknown causes this past week. It
was our first chicken loss, my son was sad... but he realizes that it will happen when we are raising birds.

More pictures of the chickens can be seen BY CLICKING HERE!

Step 5: Outside coverings for added warmth and good looks

Next, we covered the entire outside walls with 6mm plastic (another $5 find at the auction!!) and although this wasn't a planned addition, it will make the coop more water resistant in the wet weather and warmer in the winter.

The plastic can be seen here hanging from a portion above the window, which has not yet been covered in slab wood.

The slab wood was a great find from a local saw mill/farmer/neighbor. I asked him about the cost of slab wood (which is basically the bark side of the cut off when he runs it through his sawmill to square of logs to make lumber). He said he had a pile that wasn't great pickings, because some could be thicker or thinner than other pieces, or that it wouldn't look the best, etc. He said that if we could find something, we were welcome to it. I was so excited! We went to the sawmill and found the pile, Patrick climbed all over finding 'just the right pieces' in his estimation and tossed them to me. I loaded the van as full as I thought was safe for my tires (LOL) and we came home to get going on our finishing touches.

By this time, the 'girls' had come to live with us; and they were living in a coop which was not fancy on the outside, but they were loving the inside!

The slab wood starts at the roof, just under the metal over hang and it goes completely to the ground. This is for more than one reason. As we were working on the finishing touches of the coop, one naughty bird kept running under the coop and getting herself stuck. We didn't want that to happen on a regular basis. We also didn't want predators to be able to get under the coop and cause anyone of us to be scared or harm (get rid of hiding places!) And, it
would help to keep the coop warmer in the winter. The 6mm plastic goes from the roof (under the metal) to the ground, and the slab wood covers the plastic.

The only part that didn't get the plastic (because we thought of it too late, was the roof itself). There was "no way mom" that I was going to ask for the metal, which Patrick had started to put up, would be lifted and then put down again. LOL

The picture to the right, shows what the coop looks like with the door open, and the window open. There was a small step added as well, but it isn't really for humans (not big enough really), and the hens use it as a 'hop up' to the coop when they go in to roost.


Step 4: Angled the roof & added walls & door




The angle of the roof was calculated with a highly precision method of "if it fits here, it's staying here." Basically, we took the 2x6" stud from the upper wall frame (best seen in the photo on the left of Patrick), and it was angled.

Although this may not be the traditional way to build a chicken coop or
install walls, windows, or doors... it worked. And, they are chickens! They don't really care if it isn't perfect. We were working with reclaimed materials, for the most part and they are a bit of 'give and take' to begin with. Nothing is absolute or perfect... and we were okay with that.

So, the walls went up, after the pitch on the roof was decided; and the lower end (where Patrick's legs are hanging over) were cut to the appropriate size. The walls made it really come together fast, and from there on in; we had hope that the coop would meet our deadline which was fast approaching for the auction!

At this point, the roof has not been installed (in the photo above), however framing pieces to hold the roof were put in place and were strong enough to hold Patrick climbing all over it!

The door was made of the same chipboard material that the walls were constructed from. The hinges for the door were purchased at the auction (where the window and plastic were purchased)... for again, only $5.00 for a tub of them. I couldn't beat those deals.

The door is held secure at night with two blocks which are screwed into studs. They twist to tighten the door tight, and open it easy for humans to feed the birds. No door handle is required.

The hinges were mounted to an extra piece of 4x4 stud, which runs from the underside of the roof, to the ground outside. This gives the coop more stability on the corner which the hinges will be swinging from.
The roof was made with wafer board, as well.
Unfortunately time being the biggest factor in this rush to get the coop built; we didn't have a chance to reclaim as much lumber as we'd hoped. We opted for the wafer board because of the cost; just moving into our new house only weeks before the coop went up (not even a month) we were pressed for cash and time. We had to build it on a very tight budget. The roof went up in two pieces. The first being the easiest for Patrick to reach, because he could get up and down off the chicken boxes inside the coop. Then, he had to figure a new way to get on and off the coop. With no ladder. So, my little climber made sure every wall was secure and climbed up and down by the window. This is after he carefully installed the wood for the roof.

The metal for the roof, was part of a reclaim project that Patrick undertook at a local hardware store (they had recently undergone a minor face-lift to an outside portion of their building and had 10 square pieces of metal, and some odds of lumber which Patrick gladly filled my van with!). Patrick banged the metal out, as best he could; then one by one I passed them up to him, to install.

The roof itself has one job to be completed on it, but it is for the most part done. After all the rain we have had in the past 72 hours, it isn't leaking, so that is the main thing. Anything else, is just for looks.
This is Patrick, putting the metal roof on. It took a few pain staking tries to get the nails to go through all that metal... but once he got the swing of it... that hammer wouldn't stop! (notice he has now graduated to wearing a coat while working!)



Step 3: We started on the wall & window:

The large window (laying flat on the floor of the coop) was purchased at a local auction for only $5.00! It was really quite the find, at over 5 x 3'10" and it's thickness is over 5" it really was the deciding factor for how tall the one end of the coop would be.

The biggest challenge then became moving the extremely cumbersome and heavy window. We knew that once unloaded from the van, we weren't going to be ab
le to move it very far; and that it would take framing to hold it up because we couldn't depend on either mom or son alone to hold it for very long whilst the other person worked.

The plan, as it played out, was to move the van as close to the coop as possible, park and unload directly onto the floor (as seen in the photo). It needed to be facing in the direction it would be installed when propped upright if possible.

In the photo, Patrick is using the hens laying box stand (the support frame as seen in ear
lier photos), to stand on... this shows how strong they were built, and it gave him a level surface to work from while moving along a side of the coop as it grew skyward.

Patrick is framing in "temporary" walls, they would basically help us hold up the window while we secured it. They would be moved later, and two would be eventually cut to size; but this was a work in progress and not a typical way to erect a wall or mount a window.

The window is mounted into place, it would define the entire end; and tallest wall of the coop. Allowing for appropriate amounts of both light and ventilation. A crank screen portion of the window allows for the chickens to have the air movement inside, even on rainy days; the window opens out and up, to allow for the water to run off the window.

You'll notice inside the coop, we have now placed the laying box platform and laying boxes; together for the first time. They had to be placed inside at this point, because the door wouldn't not accommodate their size later on. They needed an open wall to be placed in position. The coop length was determined by the length of the boxes we built (remember we built them first to allow for lots of space). The walls at this point (in the photo) are still all the same height, shortly after this, the walls were angled to allow for a slight pitch to the roof for water and snow run off.

Step 2: Next we planned the foundation/flooring:

We searched for the most level, high piece of ground possible. Then we chose our flooring, foundation and leveling materials.

Many of our materials were reclaimed/re-use products. Note in the photo, the hardwood skid (also known as a pallet). The use of bricks, blocks, and other wood.

A frame was built to lay on top of the skid, to make the area a bit larger (the skid size isn't big enough). The frame was constructed out of 2x4" spruce studs.

The floor framing was then covered by a reclaimed (from an indoor project so it was in top notch condition), piece of aspenite (also known as "chip board," "OSB," or "waferboard").

The floor was leveled, in all directions and we were ready to proceed to the next step.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Step 1: First we built laying boxes...




Photobucket
This is Patrick having homeschool 'woodworking' class. He is working with a drill, building chicken coop laying boxes for our hens!


The base of our laying boxes is a frame which is about 24" tall. It runs the length and width of the completed laying boxes, but allows the chickens to have more floor space, a roost area underneath and warmer air rises; so the higher in the coop they are, the warmer they will be in the winter... we hope.



Sunday, October 10, 2010

What I Bought at the Auction!

Well, after much preparation (the Chicken Coop!) the day finally arrived where I could go to my first livestock auction. I was terribly excited to see the animals and find if the auction was run basically like other auctions (I love auctioning). Unfortunately, Patrick had a previous engagement and couldn't join me (and he was so disappointed, but his duty was to his Scout troop).

So, off I went to the auction solo. I didn't know a soul, and was hoping to meet up with a few birds that would like to come and live in my newly built chicken chalet... (LOL).

I took my list of potential breeds to look for, and to my dismay, the auction wasn't quite as organized as I was... LOL... if the breed type was listed on the tag, I was lucky. But, more than not, it wasn't listed... just as "rooster" or "hen." So, I kept looking, and I wrote down all of the lots I was interested in.

The boxes were listed with a receipt like tag, it had a letter and number on it, and basically if you were the seller, you were given a number. Your boxes were given individual letters, by you, but the number was always the same for that seller. (example: seller 23 could have a 23 A, 23 B, etc) and in each box, could be one, two, three or more birds.

The boxes were mostly hard to see into, so I'll be bringing a flashlight next sale. One lady did that, because she learned from her previous experience that a flashlight would be helpful.

I dutifully wrote down the numbers/letters and what was in the box that I was interested in viewing/purchasing/bidding, etc.

I wrote down other livestock too, as I had gone there with the intent to bring home a bunny too.

The auction was set up in such a way that it was organized, but could have had just one thing more to make it "perfect" organization for me. It would have been very helpful to know the lot number/letter as we were going along. I only knew the boxes by the labels, not the actual sight of the creature... it was just not possible to get a good view!

There were several volunteers, the adults loaded the next animal up for bids into a large wire cage on a table. There were about 4 cages or so; that way they could keep loading and unloading, while the auctioneer proceeded onto another cage.

Bidding was incredibly low for some animals, but it was my first auction; I wasn't used to prices in the 25cent range!!

The animals were loaded back into their boxes and delivered, and paid for immediately, by some youth volunteers. This process worked very well, the livestock was bought and paid for instantly and no wait at the end of the auction. Also, no tax. Shhh. All cash sales.

The bunny, a Polish Blue, 10 weeks old; went up for bids and the price started at 50cents! I couldn't believe my ears... I figured with a price like that, I would be in trouble, I'd bid on everything!! I bid, someone raised it to $1 and then I bought him for $1.50 can you believe that? A baby bunny, great little fella... for under $2!! (Picture will be posted). His name, Topaz (because he is, BLUE!).

I bid on a few other things, including some incubators, cages and other equipment; but mostly I was there for the chickens. I was after a few good layers, and a bunny. LOL

I bought 3 boxes of birds. Each box is auctioned separately, with the contents being the MULTIPLIER. (you bid on one bird in the box and you get all the birds in the same box, for that amount of money EACH). Example: 4 birds in a box. You bid $1.00 and your bid is the one accepted at the end of the sale, then you would pay $4.00 for the box of birds in total. You would pay, $1.00 per bird x 4 birds= $4.00

The one box of birds had a white chicken (unknown gender of this one) and red chicken (layer for sure).

The next box of birds had two red hens, both layers.

The next box contained 2 baby birds. Not tiny chicks, but still young enough that gender wasn't noted. One is black and one is brown/multi coloured. Very cute, they both "peep" still.

So, in total I bought 3 boxes of birds and one bunny. The birds were $8, $8 and $10; the bunny was $1.50. I spent $27.50 on animals! (I didn't win any bids for anything else at the auction).

Then off to the feed store. I needed a bag of food for chickens and bunny, and a new bunny bottle (already had everything else for the bunny).

That part of the trip cost more than the animals! ($14 for chicken feed, $4 for bunny feed, and almost $9 for a bottle for the bunny!) They were sold out (and still are!) of straw, so we are using wood chips, which we already had from the hamster my son has.

So, there you have it... all I brought home to a very happy 12 year old son; and happy he was! (and is!!) he loves his chickens and bunny, and our dog loves the bunny and chickens too.

The dog (mother was a pure collie), loves to keep them rounded up... and the chickens don't mind him a bit!

Great start to our mini-farm experience. Plans are well underway for the spring additions (and I am eagerly anticipating THAT auction!)... a goat, pig, lamb, turkeys, chickens for meat, chickens for laying... can't wait!!

It will keep us busy. THAT, and the 11 cords of wood in my driveway (on the wrong side of the house) that needs to be stacked before it rains again. LOL

Thanks for reading! Here are some CHICKEN PICTURES the black chicken has rusty brown feathers in the front (can be seen where I am holding it).

The Chicken Coop

As my first auction (fall Poultry Auction in Powassan, Ontario) that I planned on attending drew closer, the necessity for a chicken coop grew. We knew that the likelihood that I would actually buy livestock was quite high, that the coop had to be completed.

In between the rain showers, (which it rained a lot in September), we scheduled work outside days. We did as much work on the covered deck on rain days that we could, but the majority had to be constructed at the actual site of the coop, on dry days.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION!:
First thing that was important was deciding a location. The location needed to be near (but not too near) our house. We had only lived here about three weeks by the time we started on the coop, we didn't have time to clear land. So, we picked an area where it was higher (not a low lying area), fairly level (we live on a slope, so the chicken coop had to be leveled on the side of a slope.

FLOCK SIZE:
Secondly, deciding how many chickens we wanted to start with (wintering them especially). The coop size would be dependent on the quantity of birds that would live their peacefully with plenty of room. At this point, we still didn't really have a clue if I would be coming home with any birds!

SORTING MATERIALS (WE USED A LOT OF RECLAIMED, RECYCLED MATERIALS):
Next, we gathered what materials we had available from a pile that we had been collecting, scrounging and reclaiming. We had 10 pieces of corrugated roofing metal, and a van load of wood from a local hardware store which underwent a makeover in an area of their outside lumber yard. They didn't mind us hauling it away, and we sure took a van load! We had some lumber from previous projects, so we reclaimed and reused where possible.

SKETCHES:
The sketches for the hen laying boxes and construction, came as the first project for actual building. This gave us our size for the width, length and height of one wall. The laying boxes (pattern we used will be included later in this blog for your use!), are mounted on a stand, off the floor. This piece is very sturdy and my son used this to stand on to assist with the building of the higher areas on the coop (we had no ladder), so this stand made it safe and easy to work.

FOUNDATION:
Any construction project starts at the bottom, so we collected bricks (what we could scavenge), we used a sturdy hardwood pallet ("skid"), and we leveled as we went along. We built a floor frame from 2"x4" spruce. The frame was placed on top of the skid, which was on top of the bricks... leveling as we went along (there will be photographs to see this). The floor frame on top of the skid made it a bigger overall floor area, with additional support. The skid has bricks under it, and then there were bricks placed under the additional frame for more support.


THE FLOOR:
The floor itself, is made with a scrap piece (in very good condition) of aspenite ("chip board" or "OSB")


THE WINDOW (FOR LIGHT & VENTILATION):
Next we worked on the walls, building the framing for the walls. The first "wall" to be placed, was the massive window I found for $5 at an auction during the second week (remember, it rained a lot, so we didn't get very many work days). So, the weekend before the livestock auction, the window was purchased along with a few other building supplies (it was a very good auction). The window is very heavy, double layered, thermal and included a screen with hinged locking mechanism. We stood the longest side upward (it would have been used in a house on it's long side down); there will be photos so you can see what we did.

The framing for the window wall had to be strong and the remaining 3 walls had to be started in order to provide more support for the window wall.

CONSTRUCTION & INSTALLATION OF LAYING BOXES:
We screwed together most areas, with deck screws and most studs were 2"x 4" studs a few studs were 2" x 6", this was the case above the window. Occasionally it made better sense to use long nails, then we did that too. The frame made the building really look like, a building.

We placed the laying boxes and stand for the laying boxes, because we knew it wouldn't go through a door. By this point, most high areas could be reached from inside the coop, from the floor level (with a few exceptions).


THE WALLS:
The walls went up, they are made with the same material as the floor (aspenite), this was because it was less expensive and I had to buy the wall and roof pieces (we just didn't have time to scrounge for all of our materials). I bought 4 sheets, (they are 4' x 8' sheets). This made enough to cover the three remaining walls and roof. We made the door from the same material, and there was a piece leftover at the end of the project.

GAPS & INSULATION:
As needed, we filled places where we could see any gaps (this happens when scraps and reclaimed wood). This wasn't a big deal, but necessary to prevent drafts and predators in the coop.

At the auction (where I picked up the window), I was able to buy a roll of 6mm plastic for only$5 what a deal! I covered (using staples) the walls outside of the coop, including the door, with the plastic sheeting (plenty of plastic left for another project). This would help in the winter with draft prevention and insulation. This was an easy job, and I would have covered the roof outside, if we hadn't already started installing the metal roof just days before!

The plastic sheet runs right from under the roof to the ground. The coop is about 16-18" off the ground and this sheet will help maintain the heat in the winter.


THE DOOR:
The door was made from aspenite as well; and the hinges (another $5 find at the auction for a whole tub!). The door was cut to overlap the wall opposite to the hinges, to prevent drafts and predators.


THE FINISHED EXTERIOR WALLS:
Next, we spoke to a neighbor who owns a sawmill on his farm, not too far from here. He said he had "slab wood" that we could have to cover our coop, and we just had to come and pick through the piles. This was great fun, because the pieces were great (they weren't salable for the man who has the sawmill, but they were a great find for us!). Slab wood is the pieces that remain after a sawmill cuts the log into building materials. It is the bark side of the wood, with a small side of squared off wood on the back. It makes it very rustic looking. See the pictures, you'll totally understand what we did!

The slab wood was put up with nails, this was better than screws. Extreme caution is needed when cutting the slab wood with a circular saw. It has knots, and other pieces (bark!) that can catch on the high speed blade and kick it back at you. Have another person hold the wood slab and make sure that you are holding the saw with two hands (my saw has a handle for the left hand and the right hand has a handle with the power button). This is very important, it may all look like a good piece or easy cut, but it can be very unpredictable, it is not like cutting a 2"x4" or piece of plywood.


THE ROOF:
The building wasn't constructed by professionals, but it had to be safe, secure and able withstand my son putting a metal roof on it! That was a task for sure, in total 9 pieces of metal were used, overlapping their seams and running about a 6" piece extra off of each side of the roof (will describe this later). The metal was badly bent in some places, but he banged out the pieces on the ground and got them in a working order. Patrick installed the lowest row of metal first (the closest to the ground because there is a pitch to the roof). Then progressed up the roof to complete the process. This, by far was the most time consuming part of the project (the foundation/floor was definitely very time consuming as everything was based on it's proper installation).

FENCING & LIGHTING:
A temporary winter fenced area for the chickens has been started, it will be completed with the slab wood (another trip to the sawmill for that). But the fence looks great so far, it's only temporary and nothing fancy.

The lighting is all solar. I used a package of garden solar lights, I used 3 out of a package of 6. I made holders for each post/lantern and installed them. The lantern can be taken out of the post holder if need be, very easy but will provide a touch of light in the coming winter months when night falls early. (and they look pretty too!)


What needs to be finished:
1. On the to do list (maybe tomorrow if it isn't raining!) we'll finish the roof. The metal over hangs the sides by about 6" and I want to finish off the look by bending that over hang down to the wall, and nailing it into place.

2. A small table or shelf, for entering the chicken yard, when we go out to open the gate (which is a board propped up on the start of a fence right now) we have to put down the water, food, etc. This would make it easier for the person looking in on the chickens.

3. The chicken outside yard, is temporary for the winter. They won't want to play in the yard, nor is it really safe (we live in very rural Ontario). Predators looking for another meal, would be more likely to come by in the winter and we don't want to take a chance on that. So, completing the fenced winter yard needs to be done (another trip to the sawmill for some more slab boards will do it.

4. An indoor lighting source, solar (with another garden solar lantern from the lot mentioned above). I have to rig it in such a way that we get light IN the coop, but that the solar panel can work to collect energy for the battery to store. Still working on that, fighting a bit with shade.

5. Door to the chicken yard, that will have to be built when the area gets finished. Not sure if we will use slab wood or not. It is temporary, but it would look nice.

Pictures will be posted soon, and more to come as we begin our life in the rural Ontario north.

Thanks for reading.